| I
have to say I have never professionally as a travel company director
or as a traveller found such bad hotels and such bad value hotels
as I have in Bali. That is not to say there are no good hotels
in Bali, in fact there are some great Balinese hotels, but too
many are well overpriced and it gets worse.
In comparison with hotels say in Thailand, I find that too many
Bali hotels not just are worse value, when they should be better
value given Thailand has higher minimum wages, etc. but they are
also much less ethical and even illegal. For example, I do not
know of one hotel in Bangkok which markets itself as a family
orientated hotel yet which also blatantly allows sex trade workers
to visit single male guests' rooms; they do in Bali.
The more I stayed at the internationally acclaimed hotels of
Bali, the more I realized what a phony world of false marketing
and hype we westerners live in.
The Balinese irony is, I believe you can save a lot of time and
find the truly great hotels of Bali by immediately dismissing
any members of both the Bali
Hotels Association and PATA
(Pacific Asia Travel Association); I consider these two organizations
to a) deliberately mislead people with their names (they make
them seem something they are not), b) be only interested in sales
and marketing, with culture and public service programs token
PR spin attempts to further make them seem something they are
not, c) be solely institutional tourism business representatives
in a country where institutional means corruption and inflicting
human misery. I say; "To find the
best hotels and travel businesses in Bali with a clean conscience
where you help the Balinese and make a better world, avoid PATA
and the Bali Hotels Association members like the plague!"
Let me point out the references I make to hotels in two other
of Nasty Bali's pages: Bali
Experiences and Ethical
Bali Tourism; the later dealing with how to avoid hotels and
travel agents who cheat on taxes and service charges. Let me make
an educated guess, I would say that over 90% of Bali's hotel workers
get cheated by their employers and agents in regard to the service
charge element which should all legally go to them but hardly
ever does. When you consider that your Bali vacation / holiday
is as good as it is primarily because of the gracious, smiling
Balinese on just US$50 a month salary (if they are lucky enough
to be paid the minimum wage rate), please do not therefore in
good conscience allow them to be cheated; it is your duty as a
decent human being if that is what you claim to be.
Next comes my own personal ethical problem with hotels owned
in full or part by members of the Suharto family. After all, I
read reports that thousands of Balinese were state murdered under
the Suharto regime, that much of the land "Suharto hotels"
are built on was effectively stolen (compulsory purchased at below
market rates) from the land owners and, that it is alleged the
Suharto's got all their money from extortion and corruption. It
seems somehow distasteful and downright hypercritical to me that
western hotel groups would partner with Jakarta based companies
majoritively owned by the Suharto family or that western tourists
would want to stay in them but they do. As far as I know the following
hotels and tourism businesses are all significantly owned by Suharto
family members; Sheraton Laguna Nusa Dua, Bali Intercontinental
Resort Hotel, Bali Turtle Island Development, Nustra Tours &
Travel, Four Seasons Resort Hotel Sayan, Four Seasons Resort Hotel
Jimbaran, Lor In Bali Resort Gianyar, Mabua Intan Express, PT
Bali Benoa Marina Benoa Bay, Sempati Airlines, Gatari Air, PT
Ayung River Rafting company, Bali Cliff Resort, Nikko Bali Resort
& Spa, Westin Nusa Dua, Amanusa Resort Nusa Dua, Uluwatu Ocean
Resort, Nusa Dua Beach Hotel, Ramada Bintang Bali Hotel, Radisson
Bali Hotel Sanur, PT Sanur Hastamitra, PT Sanur Dinamika, Sahid
Bali Seaside Hotel, PT Sahid Gema Wisata Tours & Travel, PT
Sahid Visantara Tourindo, Royal Seminyak / Bali Imperial Hotel,
PT Arha Bali Semaranta Rafting. And I am sure there are plenty
more.
Next come the hotels with highly questionable / contentious building
permits which appear only to be possible through corruption. These
include Waka Shorea (Menjangan Island / Bali Barat National Park),
The Four Seasons Sayan, Le Meridien Nirwana. Waka Shorea was given
a building permit the locals say was bought from Suharto to build
in protected national park land after the park authority had ruled
hotels were not legal on park land. The Four Seasons Sayan (reputed
to be really owned by "Tommy" Suharto) faces often constant
demonstrations by locals for their buildings being too close morally
and legally to their sacred temple. Le Meridien Nirwana overlooks
the second most sacred temple in Bali, Tanah Lot and the Hindu
Balinese locals are not very happy about that. It is a fact that
many if not most hotels and villas are built without building
permits in Bali and that permits are somehow secured after. I
know that corruption occurs around the world, but in Bali it is
blatant, institutionalized and endemic; there is a difference.
Also I will be the first to admit I have stayed at Le Meridien
Nirvana, loved it and done business with them, but I would not
have done had I known. As a PS, Le Meridien Nirwana is substantially
owned by the influential Indonesian family of Bakrie who underwear
model Michelle Leslie claimed had threatened her by phone with
death not to name their son who was with her when she was busted
for drugs in Bali. The Bakries are also significantly involved
with the Freeport mining operation in West Papua (Irian Jaya)
which has drawn so much worldwide condemnation, plus also the
gas drilling accident through operational negligence that led
to the East Java mud flow.
Then come hotels with less than ethical practices (besides cheating
on taxes, etc.). For example, the Hard Rock Hotel Bali markets
itself as a family friendly resort, but the adjacent Hard Rock
Cafe is a well known place for "Night Butterflies" (local
prostitutes) to hang out looking for wealthy western male clients,
predominantly those staying at the hotel. After comments were
made along these lines to me, I contacted the Hard Rock Hotel
Bali feigning being a potential single male traveller guest who
had heard that it was possible to bring a local girl you had met
in the Hard Rock Cafe through the special connecting entrance
into the hotel and the rooms themselves. The Hard Rock Hotel Bali
confirmed this was indeed possible for such a girl to spend the
night with me in my room as long as she registered at reception.
Given picking up a non-prostitute Indonesian girl in the Hard
Rock Cafe was highly unlikely if not impossible, it was clear
the hotel reservations staff knew what my enquiry was about. For
a so called family friendly hotel I find the fact they allow prostitutes
into hotel rooms with male guests totally unacceptable. It was
quite ironic though that my business had caught the Hard Rock
Hotel cheating them and had terminated taking reservations for
them just before this admission of theirs would have had to. I
am not saying the Hard Rock Hotel Bali is any worse than other
large non-Balinese hotels on the island, I am just pointing out
what goes on there.
I finally would like to point out the amount of crime that I
believe goes on inside hotels in Bali. Most people know the stories
about young children such as a 2 year old girl being left in a
5 star Nusa Dua hotel crèche who was raped and given gonorrhea
by one of the male staff. But other less serious crime against
guests is excessive and often legitimized. For example many hotels
cheat their guests rotten when they pay their hotel bill by credit
card; the hotel shows a foreign currency conversion rate which
makes them a lot of money. So the guest pays a bill quoted in
say USD, which the hotel then converts to Indonesian Rupiah using
their dishonest rate, which the credit card company then converts
back to USD; when you see the foreign currency charge on your
cc statement, it is clear the hotel defrauded you out of perhaps
an extra 10% on average. In addition, hotel room robberies are
commonplace in Bali and worryingly often can only be explained
if the hotel staff were involved (e.g. guests say they were burgled
but there was no sign of forced entry and the thieves seemed to
know they were in the hotel's spa for an hours session). This
is also when foreigners are likely to see police corruption if
they call the police to investigate. For example in one 5 star
"Suharto hotel" in Nusa Dua, a guest reported that the
police took statements, etc. but when they returned home (Korea)
and followed up with the Balinese police, the officer said they
(the guest) had not made a proper complaint so the police could
not investigate the robbery. Of course the fact that police attended
the incident but did not help the guest make the complaint "properly"
or that the hotel is owned by a Suharto has nothing to do with
it! Other stories of stolen money, items and hotel bike rentals
which go missing while locked up and on the hotel grounds (where
the hotel demands the guest pays them to buy a new bike) just
go to show the hotel business in Bali is too often not that hospitable.
That having been said, there are some wonderful hotels around
Bali and my words should only be taken to avoid that which is
bad, not that everything is (bad). For me, some of the best hotels
I would recommend friends and family to in Bali are;
Puri Bambu Hotel, Jimbaran (the suites / "villas" are
superb)
Santika Beach Hotel, Tuban-Kuta (despite the fact I do not like
their management's business ethics plus they owe my company money)
Bali Royal, Tanjung Benoa (as close to the beach as possible or
the Honeymoon room)
Aston Resort Hotel, Tanjung Benoa (despite having no beach left
due to erosion)
Puri Santrian (Club Rooms), Sanur
Alam Indah, Nuh Kunning Ubud
Tegal Sari, Ubud
Ulun Ubud, Campuhan Ubud
Cahaya Dewata, Sayan Ubud
Bunga Permai, Sayan Ubud
Gubah Bali, Tegalinggah Ubud
Villa Semana, Singakerta Ubud
Gerebig Homestay, Penestanan Ubud
Coral View Hotel (Beachfront villas), Amed
Alam Anda, Sambirenteng (when the German owner Uwe is not there
- he really makes the place turn sour)
Agung Bali Nirwana, Sambirenteng (yes I do know the owners, but
it would be here even if that were not true)
Hotel Rambutan, Lovina
Puri Bagus, Lovina (the beachfront suites on the west side; the
east side suffers from noise from local mosque)
Pondok Sari Hotel, Pemuteran (even though they owe my company
money)
Taman Sari Hotel, Pemuteran
My above recommendations are not a guarantee the hotels involved
are acting honorably and / or legally regarding guest charges
and taxes or service charges; you need to ensure this for yourself.
The above represent an incredible price range from just US$15
per night to US$200 per night, but they all in my honest opinion
are worth every cent they charge and often a lot more. When I
compare these with the so called luxury US$100 to $140 a night
rooms (which I think are really only worth US$50 to US$60 a night)
in large blocks of concrete owned by the Suharto family in Nusa
Dua, I think you would have to be nuts to want to stay in Nusa
Dua. One small caveat, I think the Hilton Nusa Dua is the best
hotel with the best beach in that anti-Balinese gated tourist
community, although when I stayed there (2002) their rooms were
a bit tired but the food, etc. was streets ahead of the likes
of the Nusa Dua Beach Hotel (see: Bali
Experience). It is not just about how bad I thought the Nusa
Dua Beach Hotel was, it now is also the anti-Balinese nature of
the hotel as I have discovered; built on "stolen" land
(land compulsory purchased under Suharto at well below market
rates), seemingly predominantly Javanese staff, the hotel beach
is unlawfully blocked off so the Balinese can not use it, the
hotel restricts Balinese from even getting near the grounds, the
hotel buying provisions from army officers not the Balinese, being
significantly owned by the Suharto family, etc. I can not imagine
why anyone would want to stay there, let alone claim it to be
a great hotel. I think westerners who stay there are nuts (as
the value and quality are so bad), deluded (as it is about as
Balinese as an iceburg) and support the nasty Indonesian system
that abuses the island they claim to love.
My regrets regarding hotels I wanted to come and stay at but
never likely will now. These hotels (that I really would like
to have visited) are Rumah Bali (Tanjung Benoa) and Blue Moon
(Amed).
I would also like to point out my favorite hotel for a long
time in Ubud was the Hotel Villa Bukit but when its rooms were
US$50 to US$70 a night. They closed for renovation but I have
not seen any pictures that look different from before and now
charge up to US$370 per night; although some sites say the hotel
is closed now.
Finally, the hotels I stayed at or next to which I thought were
awful, the worst value for money going and I could not wait to
leave / get out of are the Nusa Dua Beach Hotel, Grand Mirage,
Melia Bali, Sanur Beach Hotel, Bali Hai Resort, Hotel Risata,
Damai "Villas" Lovina, and Jepun Bali. I found these
hotels so fundamentally flawed that the only way to to improve
them would be to close them down and start again with all new
management.
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